The "White Turf" is a unique spectacle: here the horses and their jockeys do not compete on sand or grass, as is usually the case, but in the middle of the frozen Lake St. Moritz. For more than a century, the traditional horse race has provided an experience in the snow three weekends every February and unites the Engadine population with the international jet set.
Champagne, expensive watches and oysters are as much a part of the White Turf as bratwurst, hiking boots and beer from a paper cup. So what is the White Turf, a glamour show or a folk festival? The organisers are convinced: both.
Held for the first time in 1907, the "White Turf" can already look back on 117 years of history and is thus an integral part of the Engadine identity. In 1906, one year before the first event, British winter tourists in St. Moritz invented, after the sports of bobsleigh and skeleton, "skikjöring" – a variant of racing in which the riders do not ride their horse, but are pulled by it on skis. This daring discipline is considered the main attraction at the White Turf and provides exciting moments and spectacular images every year. Skikjöring is unique in the world: in this setting, the sport only exists in St. Moritz at the White Turf.
Thomas Walther is president of the board of the White Turf and has been responsible for the event since 2016. The fourth-generation family businessman runs several hotels in Pontresina and values a mixed audience: "St. Moritz has a lot of 'bling bling' and glamour, that's simply part of it and a good thing. But everyone is welcome at the White Turf," he says with conviction.
"You can get a seat in the grandstand for as little as 25 francs and children up to 16 are free," Thomas Walther elaborates. "At the White Turf there are a lot of VIPs, and yet every family can afford the entrance fee. That is very important for us." The so-called "Family Days" also took place for the second time this year. On these days, the young up-and-coming jockeys from the region show their skills - and admission is free for everyone.
In order to hold a horse race on the frozen lake and prepare fresh food for thousands of spectators, a lot of infrastructure is needed. This is set up within nine days. "We are standing here on a layer of frozen water just 44 metres thick," Thomas Walther enthuses. "You can't replicate something like this for any money in the world."
"There are countless horse races in the world - but only three on a frozen lake," Walther notes. Also unique is the prize money: With a total of around 400,000 Swiss francs across all categories, the highest prize money in Swiss horse racing beckons at the White Turf.
Annina Widmer has been Head of Race since 2018 and used to take part in the White Turf as a jockey herself. The veterinarian takes care of the horses' well-being before, during and after the race and constantly checks the condition of the racecourse. "The snow changes from hour to hour depending on the weather," she says. "For the horses' joints to be sufficiently cushioned, it needs at least about 15 centimetres. The sun has a big influence and the conditions can change quickly with the temperatures - that makes it very exciting for the jockeys."
To ensure safe racing conditions for the horses and their riders at all times, Annina Widmer and other vets are on constant duty. For the horses, however, the snow itself does not play a major role: "The muscular system is a little more strained in the snow, but in terms of movement it is not much different for the animals than on a grass track."
In addition to numerous salaried employees, there are also around 200 volunteers at the White Turf, the so-called "Voluntari". They help out for the joy of a bratwurst and a small sack money and are an indispensable support for the event.
One of them is Roman Marti, a long-haul pilot with SWISS who grew up in St. Moritz. He has been helping out at the White Turf for around 30 years and last year took over as head of the volunteers. "I used to sell tickets here at the box office," he says. "The White Turf is a home game for me. I grew up just a few minutes from the lake, went to school here and still enjoy spending time in St. Moritz. I look forward to the race days every year - and especially to seeing all the people again who have been loyal to the event for so long."
Text: SWISS Magazine
Photos: White Turf
Published: 22.03.23