White Turf - between jet set and folk festival

The "White Turf" in St. Moritz is one of the most famous horse races in the world. For 117 years, the frozen Lake St. Moritz has become a racecourse and the social centre of the Engadine in February. A glass of champagne is just as much a part of the experience here as a hearty bratwurst.

The "White Turf" is a unique spectacle: here the horses and their jockeys do not compete on sand or grass, as is usually the case, but in the middle of the frozen Lake St. Moritz. For more than a century, the traditional horse race has provided an experience in the snow three weekends every February and unites the Engadine population with the international jet set.

ST. MORITZ, 19FEB23 - Impression von White Turf St. Moritz, aufgenommen am 19. Februar 2023 auf dem gefrorenen St. Moritzersee.
<br>Impression of the White Turf St. Moritz, captured on February 19, 2023, on the frozen lake of St. Moritz.
<br>swiss-image.ch/Photo Andy Mettler<br>
© White Turf

Champagne, expensive watches and oysters are as much a part of the White Turf as bratwurst, hiking boots and beer from a paper cup. So what is the White Turf, a glamour show or a folk festival? The organisers are convinced: both.

ST. MORITZ, 12FEB23 - Leta Joos mit Los Angeles holt den vierten Platz am ‘Credit Suisse - GP von Silvaplana’ (Skikjoeringrennen ueber 2'700 Meter) am zweiten Renntag von White Turf St. Moritz am 12. Februar 2023 auf dem gefrorenen St. Moritzersee.
<br>Impression of the skikjoering race ‘Credit Suisse - GP von Silvaplana’ at the White Turf St. Moritz taking place on the frozen lake of St. Moritz, Switzerland, February 12, 2023.
<br>swiss-image.ch/Photo Andy Mettler<br>
© White Turf

Held for the first time in 1907, the "White Turf" can already look back on 117 years of history and is thus an integral part of the Engadine identity. In 1906, one year before the first event, British winter tourists in St. Moritz invented, after the sports of bobsleigh and skeleton, "skikjöring" ­– a variant of racing in which the riders do not ride their horse, but are pulled by it on skis. This daring discipline is considered the main attraction at the White Turf and provides exciting moments and spectacular images every year. Skikjöring is unique in the world: in this setting, the sport only exists in St. Moritz at the White Turf.

ST. MORITZ, 12FEB23 - Vorstandspraesident Thomas Walther blickt in die Ferne... Impression von White Turf St. Moritz, aufgenommen am 12. Februar 2023 auf dem gefrorenen St. Moritzersee.
<br>Impression of the White Turf St. Moritz, captured on February 12, 2023, on the frozen lake of St. Moritz.
<br>swiss-image.ch/Photo Andy Mettler<br>
© White Turf

Thomas Walther is president of the board of the White Turf and has been responsible for the event since 2016. The fourth-generation family businessman runs several hotels in Pontresina and values a mixed audience: "St. Moritz has a lot of 'bling bling' and glamour, that's simply part of it and a good thing. But everyone is welcome at the White Turf," he says with conviction.

ST. MORITZ, 5FEB23 - Was ist ein Skikjoering-Rennen ohne Skifahrer? Ein Flachrennen. Aus technischen Gruenden musste das Skikjoering mit denselben Pferden beritten als Flachrennen gestartet werden. Sieger Stepney Causeway gewinnt den ‘Credit Suisse - GP von Celerina’ (Flachrennen ueber 1'900 Meter) am ersten Renntag von White Turf St. Moritz am 5. Februar 2023 auf dem gefrorenen St. Moritzersee. Ein Stallmaedchen zeigt ihren Sieger stolz dem Publikum bei der Siegerehrung.
<br>Impression of the race ‘Credit Suisse - GP von Celerina’ at the White Turf St. Moritz taking place on the frozen lake of St. Moritz, Switzerland, February 5, 2023.
<br>swiss-image.ch/Photo Andy Mettler<br>
© White Turf

"You can get a seat in the grandstand for as little as 25 francs and children up to 16 are free," Thomas Walther elaborates. "At the White Turf there are a lot of VIPs, and yet every family can afford the entrance fee. That is very important for us." The so-called "Family Days" also took place for the second time this year. On these days, the young up-and-coming jockeys from the region show their skills - and admission is free for everyone.

Bild_WhiteTurf_Infrastruktur.jpg
© White Turf

In order to hold a horse race on the frozen lake and prepare fresh food for thousands of spectators, a lot of infrastructure is needed. This is set up within nine days. "We are standing here on a layer of frozen water just 44 metres thick," Thomas Walther enthuses. "You can't replicate something like this for any money in the world."

ST. MORITZ, 5FEB23 - Impression von White Turf St. Moritz, aufgenommen am 5. Februar 2023 auf dem gefrorenen St. Moritzersee.
<br>Impression of the White Turf St. Moritz, captured on February 5, 2023, on the frozen lake of St. Moritz.
<br>swiss-image.ch/Photo Andy Mettler<br>
© White Turf

"There are countless horse races in the world - but only three on a frozen lake," Walther notes. Also unique is the prize money: With a total of around 400,000 Swiss francs across all categories, the highest prize money in Swiss horse racing beckons at the White Turf.

Bild_WhiteTurf_Annina.jpg
© White Turf

Annina Widmer has been Head of Race since 2018 and used to take part in the White Turf as a jockey herself. The veterinarian takes care of the horses' well-being before, during and after the race and constantly checks the condition of the racecourse. "The snow changes from hour to hour depending on the weather," she says. "For the horses' joints to be sufficiently cushioned, it needs at least about 15 centimetres. The sun has a big influence and the conditions can change quickly with the temperatures - that makes it very exciting for the jockeys."

ST. MORITZ, 5FEB23 - Impression vom 'GP Swiss Quality Broker' (Flachrennen ueber 1'800 Meter) am ersten Renntag von White Turf St. Moritz am 5. Februar 2023 auf dem gefrorenen St. Moritzersee.
<br>Impression of the flat race ‘GP Swiss Quality Broker’ at the White Turf St. Moritz taking place on the frozen lake of St. Moritz, Switzerland, February 5, 2023.
<br>swiss-image.ch/Photo Andy Mettler<br>
© White Turf

To ensure safe racing conditions for the horses and their riders at all times, Annina Widmer and other vets are on constant duty. For the horses, however, the snow itself does not play a major role: "The muscular system is a little more strained in the snow, but in terms of movement it is not much different for the animals than on a grass track."

ST. MORITZ, 5FEB23 - Die beiden Ehrendamen von White Turf in Engadiner Tracht werden im Pressezelt frisiert. Impression von White Turf St. Moritz, aufgenommen am 5. Februar 2023 auf dem gefrorenen St. Moritzersee.
<br>Impression of the White Turf St. Moritz, captured on February 5, 2023, on the frozen lake of St. Moritz.
<br>swiss-image.ch/Photo Andy Mettler<br>
© White Turf

In addition to numerous salaried employees, there are also around 200 volunteers at the White Turf, the so-called "Voluntari". They help out for the joy of a bratwurst and a small sack money and are an indispensable support for the event.

Bild_WhiteTurf_Roman.jpeg
© White Turf

One of them is Roman Marti, a long-haul pilot with SWISS who grew up in St. Moritz. He has been helping out at the White Turf for around 30 years and last year took over as head of the volunteers. "I used to sell tickets here at the box office," he says. "The White Turf is a home game for me. I grew up just a few minutes from the lake, went to school here and still enjoy spending time in St. Moritz. I look forward to the race days every year - and especially to seeing all the people again who have been loyal to the event for so long."

ST. MORITZ, 12FEB23 - Zahlreiche Besucher erfreuen sich des schoenen Wetters am 2. Renntag des White Turf St. Moritz, aufgenommen am 12. Februar 2023 auf dem gefrorenen St. Moritzersee.
<br>Impression of the White Turf St. Moritz, captured on February 12, 2023, on the frozen lake of St. Moritz.
<br>swiss-image.ch/Photo Andy Mettler<br>
© White Turf

Text: SWISS Magazine

Photos: White Turf

Published: 22.03.23