Ciao Firenze

Almost 10 million people visit Florence every year. And most of them will have squeezed their way onto the Ponte Vecchio and over to see the Uffizi, the cathedral and Michelangelo’s David. It’s hardly surprising: The highlights of Tuscany’s capital are breathtakingly beautiful. But Florence has so many charming sideshows, too.

Who has heard of the enchanting Rose Garden or of Sant’Ambrogio Market, which is so popular with the locals?

Enchanting Places

Twilight over the Arno. A time to just stand and stare – no smartphone required.
Twilight over the Arno. A time to just stand and stare – no smartphone required.
Pretty much everyone seems to hang out or pass by at the Loggia dei Lanzi on the grand Piazza della Signoria.
Pretty much everyone seems to hang out or pass by at the Loggia dei Lanzi on the grand Piazza della Signoria.
Piazza Santo Spirito Farmers Market
Every morning the Piazza Santo Spirito is the venue for an idyllic farmers’ market. The signora here is selling fruit from her garden.
Piazza Santo Spirito with a lot of people
The Piazza Santo Spirito is one of the city’s most atmospheric squares. Its numerous small bars are a popular meeting place, especially during the cocktail hour.
Ice cream stand with man
No ice cream here. Trippa (tripe) and lampredotto (cow’s stomach) are typical Florentine street food, consumed in a bread roll moistened with broth.
La dolce vita fiorentina. A couple enjoy the evening mood and a glass of red wine in one of the picturesque side streets of the San Frediano quarter.
La dolce vita fiorentina. A couple enjoy the evening mood and a glass of red wine in one of the picturesque side streets of the San Frediano quarter.

Then there are the Florentines themselves, who have been walking their own tricky tightrope for several years now: wanting to free themselves from the restraints of their Renaissance traditions, but deter­mined not to become as hectic as Rome or as business-minded as Milan.

People of Florence

Saskai Wittmer in the kitchen
Saskia Wittmer, a native of Berlin, opened her Saskia Scarpe su misura studio in 2000 here, which since has evolved into a top address for bespoke shoes.
Portrait Marco Stabile
Marco Stabile lends the Tuscan dishes of his childhood an innovative and cosmopolitan note at his Ora d’Aria restaurant. It earned him a Michelin star in 2011. And a second should not be too long coming.
Director of J.K. Place Hotel
Alongside his official function as director of the J.K. Place Hotel, Claudio Meli is a tireless ambassador for the city. His helpful “J.K. Essential Guide to Florence” can be downloaded from the hotel website.
Breakfast on the sunny terrace of the Cibreo Caff è (see City Guide).
Breakfast on the sunny terrace of the Cibreo Caffè.

Their solution: a “niche” approach of wine bars, art galleries and concept stores that suit their own style but are cool and cosmo­politan, too. Florence is small; but big enough for alternatives that are genuinely fun.

Only in Florence

perfume fragrances
Sharade is one of the best-known fragrances of perfume manufacturer Aquaflor.
Porcelain manufacturer Richard Ginori
Porcelain manufacturer Richard Ginori is famed for both its tradi-tional designs and its collaborations with contempor ary designers. The company has been owned by Gucci since 2013.
Visit the showroom of the Fondazione Lisio and you’ll find some unique hand-woven and extremely valuable fabrics on display.
Visit the showroom of the Fondazione Lisio and you’ll find some unique hand-woven and extremely valuable fabrics on display.
The entrance area of the Museo Marino Marini is the nave of a deconsecrated church.
The entrance area of the Museo Marino Marini is the nave of a deconsecrated church.

Text: Patricia Engelhorn
Photos: Marina Denisova

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