Looking for a change from the insurance business and being a lover of Tokay wines, Genevabased Christian Gelbe-Haussen, whose parents hail from Saxony and Hungary, moved to Budapest a year and a half ago. He has since been passionate about introducing people to the ageold Hungarian wine culture for Taste Hungary: “Over the past several years, a young and upandcoming scene, shaped by adventurous vintners, has emerged in the country’s 22 wine regions. It’s very exciting to follow this development. In short: I’m in the right place at the right time!”
#1 Menza
The spacious, stylishly furnished Menza serves up traditional local dishes that would make any Hungarian grandmother blush. The goulash soup, the splendidly soft pork schnitzel, and the hearty veal paprikash paired with egg dumplings are highly recommended. And be sure not to miss the dessert menu. menzaetterem.hu
#2 Taste Hungary
Exploring Budapest through its culinary offerings is always fabulous, and if you can combine it with wine, then you are in for a perfect travel experience. In addition to guided tours, Taste Hungary offers tastings in its own firstrate cellar where you can sample both delicious Hungarian dishes and wines. tastehungary.com
#3 Stand25 Bisztró
With their Stand25 Bisztró, Szabina Szulló and Tamás Széll reinterpret traditional Hungarian cuisine, delighting a local office clientele and tourists alike. Many come for the goulash soup, which includes a touch of chopped celery and lemon seasoning. And to round things off on a sweet note: Somlói Galuska with cream and chocolate syrup! stand25.hu
#4 Gerlóczy
With Gerlóczy, a cheese trader has made his dream come true: In a historic building dating from 1892, he has furnished several rooms in Parisian bohemian style. Beautiful wooden floors, spacious and modern bathrooms, a small and superb bistro, and very personal service round out the establishment’s boutique atmosphere. gerloczy.hu
#5 Textúra
In the shadow of St Stephen’s Basilica, Textúra is an elegant brasserie whose chic interior includes a stylised wooden tree in the middle of the room. Textúra specialises in Hungarian cuisine while incorporating avantgarde ingredients and featuring a courageous use of offal. texturaetterem.hu
#6 Rosenstein Vendéglo
Located behind the Keleti railway station, the Rosenstein conjures up the charm of the early 20th century. Tibor Rosenstein’s credo: Restaurants are not merely places to enjoy a good meal, but also to refresh your mind and soul. In addition to Hungarian classics, the extensive menu also features specialities from Jewish cuisine. rosenstein.hu
#7 Déryné Bistro
With its hip but stylish atmosphere – the interior is reminiscent of the legendary Balthazar in Paris – the Déryné has succeeded in remaining popular since it opened in 2007. In addition to French and Hungarian classics, the extensive breakfast and brunch menu, served until 4 p.m. on weekends, is also recommended. deryne.com
#8 Centrál Kávéház
The Centrál café was once a centre of Budapest’s intellectuals. To this day, the iconic coffee house exudes the magic of bygone times. A piece of Dobos cake – five layers of chocolate cream, butter biscuit, and caramel – and a glimpse of the locals can be enjoyed here while relaxing on soft leather cushions. centralkavehaz.hu
#9 Lángos stall in the Great Market Hall
At the ground level, you can buy peppers, salami, foie gras, and souvenirs. In contrast, on the upper floor you’ll find snack bars, some of them offering the traditional Hungarian snack, a descendant of the Turkish pita. Lángos is a deepfried, fluffysoft yeast dough coated with sour cream and cheese. A must try! piaconline.hu
#10 Boutiq' Bar
This upscale cocktail bar, hidden in a quiet side street near the city centre, was the pioneer of Budapest’s craft cocktail movement. The bartenders, all of whom undergo a rigorous training before being permitted to stand behind the counter, serve up their exquisite drinks with a flair for the theatrical. boutiqbar.com
Text: Tamás Kiss
Photos: Philip Frowein