Lisbon: old city, young spirit

There are places where millennia of history combine with youthful joie de vivre. Although Lisbon has long since ceased to be one of the world's most important trading cities and ports, its former glory can still be seen. 

You can also see how the once crisis-ridden city has been transformed into an exceedingly cheerful and charming metropolis.

Old trams still climb the steep streets of the old town, the CD seller on the busy Rua do Carmo plays Fado forever. At the same time, local hipsters whizz along the banks of the Tagus on titanium bikes and dance-pop can be heard from casual bars.

Lisbon's palpable spirit of optimism is accompanied by many exciting projects - apparently the spirit of adventure is still very much alive in this city from which explorers set sail and set out on world voyages as early as the 16th century.

 

Impressions of Lisbon

Yello tram is driving in the street
For people in no hurry: The Lisbon tram jogs through the city at a snail's pace and climbs even the steepest streets.
View from above of the Calçada do Carmo, Rossio Square.
View from above of the Calçada do Carmo, Rossio Square with the Dom Pedro IV Column and Castle Hill in the background.
Front facade of a flower shop
The "Little Garden" flower shop on Rua Garrett has been around since 1922 and is one of the last historic shops on the chic shopping street.
Old stone tower in the evening light.
Completed in 1521, the Torre de Belém was built as a lighthouse on a rock at the mouth of the Tagus. Today it is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and the top floor is a viewing platform.
Wave-like building at the shore. In the back a large bridge.
Lisbon has that too: modern architecture. This wave-like structure stands in the Belem district and houses the MAAT, Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology.
Narrow alley in the old city with an orange tree.
The romantic, narrow and sometimes extremely steep alleys of the Alfama are a popular photo motif.
Tiniy kiosk stall with a man standing in the middle.
César Augusto only stands in the tiny kiosk of the famous café A Brasileira, which belongs to his family, as an exception.

Travel tips

Delicious food

Páteo

Two-star chef José Avilez is Lisbon's best-known chef. His empire includes several restaurants, among them the uncomplicated Páteo, which resides in the courtyard of a former monastery and scores with the best Portuguese cuisine. The fried octopus on black rice is particularly delicious.

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Insight view of a restaurant with a gallery floor.
Restaurant Páteo.

 

Epur

Michelin-starred chef Vincent Farges cooks in a purist restaurant with light wooden furniture, antique azulejos and a view of the castle, city and river. If you choose the 8-course menu, you get to taste almost everything.

www.epur.pt

Waiter presents a basket with freshly baked bread.
Bread selection at Epur.

 

Restaurante XL 

The restaurant in the upscale residential district of Estrela is frequented almost exclusively by locals. You can enjoy gambas a la plancha, an excellent beef steak or fish soufflé. The wine selection is good and the service is very friendly.

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Interior of a restaurant with a shelve in the background containing a lot of wine bottles.
Restaurante XL.

 

Trendy bars and coffee shops

Park

You have to find the coolest bar in town first: It is located on the roof of a multi-storey car park and if you want to get there, you have to be good at climbing stairs. During the day you sit in the sun, at night under the stars, the view over the rooftops to the river is fantastic! Favourite drink: white wine sangria.

People standing and sitting outdoor having a glass in their hands. In the background a bridge in the sunset.
Park Bar.

 

Pastelaria Benard

Most tourists go to the famous Café A Brasileira, but just a few doors down is the wonderfully old-fashioned and less crowded Pastelaria Benard with a huge selection of pastries. Everything is homemade, bestsellers are the croissants and the pasteis de nata.

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Plate filled with pastry.
Pastelaria Benard.

 

Toca da Raposa

This small, dimly lit bar has cool music and delicious cocktails prepared on a mighty pink sandstone block. Our favourite: Rat, made with homemade limoncello with herbal chamomile and tonic.

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Woman mixing a drink in a dark bar.
Constança Cordeiro at her bar Toca da Raposa.

 

Good shopping

Loja das Conservas

This modernly designed shop for canned fish sells the products of a cooperative. This way, you have an overview of the products of all Portuguese producers. There is a short description of each tin, and the vintage sardines are a special treat. The pretty tins also make a nice souvenir.

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fish cannes wrapped in coloured paper.
Loja das Conservas.

 

Fora

Cool glasses designed in Lisbon and produced in Portugal. There are about twelve different acetate frames and the possibility to choose from different Zeiss lenses: polarised or non-polarised and in several colours. All this at prices between 120 and 180 euros.

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Shop with a shelve with eyewear.
Good selection of eye-wear at Fora.

 

XVIII

The tiles (azulejos) sold in this beautiful shop are made on site according to traditional, reinterpreted or entirely modern patterns and motifs. You can watch the artists at work, commission individual designs and have orders delivered to your home.

XVIII

Woman artist is drawing pictures on white tiles.
They still exist: hand-painted azulejos.

 

A Vida Portuguesa

In three atmospheric concept stores, Portuguese nostalgic products are sold in the most beautiful retro look: Whether soaps, porcelain or stationery - everything looks as if it is from the last century, but is produced by specialised manufactories, monasteries and small artisan businesses.

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Shelve with colourful china ware.
They still exist: hand-painted azulejos.

 

Comfi sleeping

 

Memmo Principe Real

41 not very large, but thoroughly styled rooms with balcony or terrace, beautiful wooden floors, comfortable beds, partly open bathrooms and more than enough shelf and storage space. Great location in the trendy Principe Real district, very nice staff, excellent breakfast and a terrace with pool and panoramic view.

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View of a hotel lounge with a huge historic drawing at the wall.
Hotel Memmo Principe Real.

 

Brown's Central

Lovingly designed 84-room hotel in the middle of the Baixa suburb. The smallest rooms are indeed very small, but like all the others they have a fridge, espresso machine and marble bathroom. The velvet armchairs and sofas in the lobby and the chic brasserie are also nice places to stay.

brownscentral