Dubrovnik: a pearl on the Croatian coast

Who is the fairest in the land? In Croatia, there’s no doubt: Dubrovnik, with its unique location on a promontory practically in the middle of the sea, its limestone Old Town, and its idyllic alley ways, attractive shops, and a Mediterrian cuisine.

London native Mark Thomas (50) is married to a Croatian woman and has lived in Dubrovnik for over 20 years. In 2004, he founded the “Dubrovnik Times”, the country’s first English-language newspaper, which is published every week to this day. He later launched the paper’s website, which was visited by over 1.8 million people in 2019. Mark knows everything and everyone in the city – these are his insider’s tips. 

Portrait Picture of Mark Thomas.
Dubrovnik has become home to Mark Thomas.

#1 Gradska kavana Arsenal 

This elegant café in the City Hall building has been around since 1895. The large terrace is a perfect place for people watching: In the morning, business people sit down to their power breakfast; later elegant women and holidaymakers drop in for a light lunch. In the afternoon it’s time for cakes, and in the evening cocktails are served. nautikarestaurants.com

People sitting in a café
A café for business people and holiday makers.

#2 Cable car

A cable car goes up to the 415 metre high Mount Srd. From there you can enjoy views of the Old Town of Dubrovnik, the coast and the islands, and the barren mountain landscape that extends to Bosnia. At the mountain station there’s a restaurant and a fort, where the history of the Croatian War of Independence is documented. You are also sure to enjoy the buggy safari here. dubrovnikcablecar.com

View to the old town from Dubrovnik's legendary cable cars.
View to the old town from Dubrovnik's legendary cable cars.

#3 Taj Mahal

This is not an Indian restaurant, but one that specialises in the rather hearty dishes of neighbouring Bosnia. Take a seat in the attractive dining area or at the tables in front of the door and enjoy Cevapi (grilled minced meat sausages in flatbread), Pljeskavica (a kind of burger), baked spinach rolls, and the irresistible desserts. tajmahaldubrovnik.com

Taj Mahal serves hearty and delicious dishes from Bosnia.
Taj Mahal serves hearty and delicious dishes from Bosnia. ©

#4 Life According to Kawa

Concept store with selected designer objects. Whether it’s ceramics, jewellery, T-shirts or bags – everything is sourced from small local producers. The ties by Isola and handmade leather accessories by Go Retro are particularly beautiful. For foodies, there’s award-winning olive oil, smoked sea salt, and Croatian cookbooks. kawa.life

T-Shirt hanging on a shopping cart.
This concept store offers everything from handmade leather products to olive oil.

#5 D’Vino

If you’re looking for a crash course in Croatian wine culture, this wine bar with its lounge atmosphere is the right place for you. Owner Sasha Lušic guides you knowledgeably through his wine selection, which features many products from small local winegrowers, and serves delicious cheese platters to fill the stomach. Bestsellers are the sparkling Korta Katarina and the deep red Plavac Mali. dvino.net

Bartender filling up a glass of wine.
Wine enthusiasts get their money's worth at D Vino's.

#6 St Joseph’s

Six romantic suites with massive wooden beam ceilings, majestic crystal chandeliers, and off-white marble bathrooms in a 400-year-old private mansion in the middle of the Old Town. The owners had the building carefully renovated and opened it in 2014 as a cosy residence. Each suite includes a kitchenette, and in the morning a delicious breakfast is brought to your room. stjosephs.hr

hotel room with bed
The St. Joseph's is located in the middle of the Old Town.

#7 Kopun

Ana and Petar Bitanga breathe new life into traditional dishes: The “Dubrovnik capon” (fattened rooster) is served according to a recipe from the 16th century with a bitter orange and honey sauce, the opulent “brodet” (island fish stew) in a tomato and onion stock. These are accompanied by Malvasia wine and a view onto the picturesque St Ignatius church square. restaurantkopun.com

Dish at the Kopun restaurant.
Fine dining with a view at the restaurant Kopun. ©

#8 Museum of Modern Art

Practically every significant modern and contemporary Croatian artist is represented in this elegant villa, once the residence of powerful shipowner Božo Banac. Around 2,500 works of art can be seen in the museum, which opened in 1948 – from the suggestive oil portraits of Vlaho Bukovac to the playful installations of Zlatan Dumanic. ugdubrovnik.hr

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The Museum of Modern Art has around 2,500 works of art.

#9 Proto

When VIPs like Eva Longoria or Bono are in town, they eat at the romantic, familyrun gourmet restaurant Proto, which opened in 1886. Take a seat in the elegant interior, at the tables along the building, or – most beautifully – on the firstfloor roof terrace and enjoy the local oysters, grilled sea bass, and fine wines from the region. esculaprestaurants.com

Fish dish in the restaurant Proto.
Enjoy fresh fish at the Proto.

#10 Matija Vierda Juvelir

Matija Vierda is probably the last goldsmith who still produces the city’s traditional jewellery entirely by hand – in a tiny workplace located in the shop founded by his grandfather in 1914. Seven working days are needed for a filigree silver bracelet, and even more for the wedding earrings typical of Dubrovnik. 
Stradun 17, Tel. +385 20 323 314