The Land Rover is equipped for our upcoming trip to the Lofoten Islands: There are mattresses in the boot and we also have a gas stove, food, instant coffee (better than none at all!), clothes for all weathers and good hiking shoes. And the camera, of course. We’ll be on the road for two and a half weeks. Our journey begins in Basel, where we board the car train and travel through the night to Hamburg, and from there to the Danish coast. We stand in the wind, gulping in the salty sea air, and feel a heady sense of adventure awaken inside us. We spend our first night in the Land Rover. The next day, the ferry takes us to Langesund in southern Norway, whence we will head deeper and deeper into the far north.

Across the Polar Circle

Our route wends through forests of fir trees and between green hills, past deep fjords and lofty mountains. On the third day we cross the Polar Circle – north of this latitude the sun never sets for a period during the summer and never rises for a period during the winter. It’s a special moment, even though the line itself is not actually visible. The scenery becomes increasingly barren and rocky. We roll into Bognes ferry terminal at last, the abrupt end of European route E6, which we have followed so far. There is absolutely nothing in Bognes bar a single coffee shop. The ferry takes us to Lødingen on Hinnøya Island, where the Lofoten chain begins. From now on, we will follow the European route E 10, which not only connects the island to the Norwegian mainland, but also takes visitors all the way to the very outermost of the approximately 80 islands, via spectacular bridges and submarine tunnels.

Enjoying the outdoor life

Steep, towering mountains, white sandy beaches and Caribbean blue waters: Nature here is so beautiful it is almost surreal. Small red houses are dotted like dashes of colour across a landscape which is set in scene by the dramatic, rapidly changing daylight. We stop at a different camp site every evening, where a hot shower is welcome before we settle down to drink in this resplendent nature. We prepare a simple meal on the gas stove and then take our seats around the table outdoors to feast our eyes on the scenery. It is late summer, but the light lingers long into the evening even so, before the day finally fades into a soft twilight – there is no better time for long discussions, letting thoughts wander and quite simply savouring the moment. We fall asleep to the sound of the sea and awaken to the cries of gulls. With no reason to hurry, we adapt our rhythm to that of our surroundings.

Despite our northerly latitude, the climate is relatively mild thanks to the influence of the Gulf Stream, and most days are pleasant and sunny. From now, we advance at a rate of approximately one island per day; the stages are short, and we depart from the main road to explore the coast, shoot photos and go walking or hiking as the whim takes us. From time to time, we come across other travellers, often Scandinavians, on the road with tents or camping cars for weeks or even months at a time.

We stop in Svolvær, the capital of the Lofoten Islands, before continuing to Hennigsvær, a picturesque little place with some 500 residents who live in houses scattered across several tiny islets washed flat by the wind and the weather. At the extremity of one such outcrop we are amazed to find a football ground, now a favourite photo subject due to its spectacular location encircled by the sea. Instead of stands, the pitch is surrounded by wooden racks on which local fisherman hang out cod to dry in the salty spring air. Steep and imposing, Festvagtinden peak rises up behind the village. Hennigsvær also attracts a crowd of young visitors. Many Norwegians who live in the city come here to spend their entire summer with friends while enjoying the warmth of the midnight sun and recharging their batteries with the energy of this very special place. 

Å, end of the road

The E 10 ends at Å, the most westerly locality of the Lofoten Islands, with probably the shortest name. We have arrived at our destination. A fishing village of 100 odd people, the buildings in Å go back over 150 years. Å also boasts a museum devoted to stockfish. As a final highlight, we hike up the nearby Reinebringen. Rising directly out of the sea, these steep peaks should not be underestimated. The climb is tough, but the view from the top is without equal. We look down over the vastness of the seascape below and feel a little wistful at the sight of the road which will take us back and away from the islands – but there is comfort in knowing we are much the richer in wonderful experiences and lasting memories!