Goran Zgrablic earned his doctorate in physics in Lausanne and teaches today at Pula University. A passionate foodie with a sommelier diploma and his own olive grove, too, Goran is the author of the Manjada gastro blog and the founder of the “Taste of Croatia” gourmet guide. His Eat Istria organisation offers cookery courses and visits to local producers that provide fascinating insights into the region’s culinary traditions. Here are his Pula tips.

#1 Valsabbion

This stylish boutique hotel is located on the picturesque bay of Pješčana Uvala, some 3 kilometres from Pula’s Old Town. The eleven spacious studios feature comfort able beds, contemporary furnishings and elegant parquet floors, while some also have their own terrace and sea view. The hotel further boasts a pretty private beach, a pool and an aspirational spa. valsabbion.hr

#2 Eat Istria

A cookery course in a club? With a DJ? Only Goran Zgrablic of Eat Istria would concoct an idea like that. Cook, drink and dance, and some time later in the evening enjoy the Croatian delights you made earlier: bean soup, fish ragout, ravioli with cheese filling. A party night with a difference! Goran also holds cookery courses at a vineyard, which can be supplemented with visits to local wine producers. eatistria.com  

#3 Trattoria Vodnjanka

With its cosy dining room, its half-covered terrace and its boundlessly friendly host family, it’s no wonder that this restaurant is so popular among the local community. It’s genuine Pulan fare that is served here, ranging from tasty fish soup with roast polenta to risotto with wild green asparagus and braised (local) beef. Accompanied by fine regional wines. 

#4 Konoba Batelina

This modest-looking establishment serves the finest fish in the region. It belongs to a fishing family; Danilo Skoko sets out to sea every day. Back on land, he heads for the kitchen, where he and his son Davide cook up such delights as melt-in-the-mouth marinated turbot with orange- and-pepper cream, steamed mantis shrimps and gnocchi with spider crab sauce. 

#5 Caffè Cvajner

This hip café in Pula’s historic Forum does offer outside seating, but it’s the wonderful interior that is the real attraction. The place was once a bank, and the former vault now serves as the café’s storeroom. The whole venue is decked out with vintage sofas and armchairs dating from Tito’s times, and the walls still show traces of their original mosaics. The café occasionally stages concerts and exhibitions, too.

#6 Komo Design Store

Fashions, jewellery, accessories and design items by Croatian artists: They’ve all found a vital platform here. The range on offer at Komo extends from velvet dresses, skirts and coats by Staša Design to corn-stalk-and-leather backpacks by Pepiere, beautiful Wallware glass plates, cool Sheriff & Cherry sunglasses and the filigree jewellery creations of its owner Iva Stojkovich.   

#7 Old City Bar

A casual pub-like bar with a lot of wood and large TV screens showing muted soccer games. The sound is supplied by the largely young clientele, while a procession of DJs offer musical accompaniment on weekend evenings. The drinks range from numerous local beers to a selection of cocktails, though coffee drinkers are welcome, too. And the friendly staff remain well in command, even amid all the bustle and commotion.

#8 Sveta Srca

The Church of the Sacred Hearts was founded by the Jesuits in 1908. For decades after the Second World War it was relegated to storeroom use. But since its careful and total renovation, the building has become one of Croatia’s finest exhibition spaces, whose light-flooded interior offers an outstanding setting for everything from historical documents to contemporary artists’ shows.

#9 Galerija Makina

This is the finest gallery for photographic art in town, and possibly in the country. The changing exhibitions are dedicated to up-and-coming young talents. But the Makina also features the work of such international greats as Ken Russell and Nick Wall. And any opening here is a veritable who’s who of the Pula art scene. 

#10 Museum Shop Olei Histriae

A paradise for lovers of fine extra-virgin! The shop at Pula’s olive oil museum offers the wares of some 30 different oil producers from all over Istria. Many of them are pressed from olive varieties that are unknown elsewhere, such as the slightly bitter istarska bjelica or the somewhat spicy buža. The shop also stocks olive-oil-based cosmetics and some attractive olive wood creations. oleumhistriae.com