There is fog hanging in the trees, the meadows are covered with snow. In our camper the thermometer reads 21 degrees. The outside temperature is close to freezing. Today is the the fourth day of our road trip through Japan. Our goal is to experience the beauty of the cherry blossoms. But instead we set out through the wintry landscape for an onsen, a Japanese bathhouse. Sakura stands for transience, for change, and above all: for a new beginning. The winter has come to an end and spring brings a feeling of lightness. For students, the new school year begins. In the workplace, the fiscal year is over and promotions are announced. Families sit in parks under the cherry trees and enjoy a picnic. Hanami, literally "looking at flowers," is the name for these social gatherings.

Arrival in Osaka

Like millions of Japanese and tourists, we want to experience this spectacle. We planned our trip meticulously. Two months before our arrival in Osaka, we consulted the cherry blossom forecast calendar. As a colleague of ours with experience in Japan told us, "The meteorological forecasts for the cherry blossoms in Japan are incredibly accurate." We were happy to hear this. We chose a camper for our vehicle so we could drive off in whatever direction the cherry blossoms would be most glorious. Then, a few days before our arrival in Japan, the weather decided to play tricks on us. A brief cold spell descended upon the country. In short: the cherry blossoms didn’t follow our travel plans.

In Osaka we met a smiling Mr. Fuwa, the owner of the camper. He showed us all the buttons and levers of the vehicle, gave us the keys, and wished us a safe journey. A journey to where? 

As a general rule, the cherry blossom season moves from the south to the north. But even in the south, people were still waiting for the blossoming to begin. Yes, in the Kyoto and Osaka region it was expected to arrive a bit earlier, but were we going to sit around and twiddle our thumbs? We'd much rather simply climb into our mobile hotel and drive off. What can you expect on a road trip through Japan? Lots of fun, many new things, and ...

... places you won’t find in any travel guide

"According to Google Maps, there’s a route here." My travel partner behind the wheel, the photographer Nico Schaerer, shakes his head. "No, there’s no way through." We’re in a cul-de-sac in a small fishing village. The sun is setting. We grab a beer from the fridge and decide to get out of our vehicle and sit on the beach. This is how we often end up spending the days. We find ourselves in places whose charm is their everyday life. Places that are simple, but tidy and well-maintained in the typical Japanese way. And whose residents give you a slightly puzzled look, probably wondering what these two tourists think they can expect to find here.

... fantastic sights

We also head for the places whose images epitomize Japan: Mount Fuji, the Chureito Pagoda, Nachi Falls, the bathing monkeys in the Jigokudani Monkey Park, and Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion in Kyoto.

... the daily onsen experience

Our camper isn’t equipped with a shower. But what we have is much better than that: our daily onsen ritual. An addictive experience. The Japanese onsen are communal baths. We encounter them daily on our trip. Often fed by hot springs, they come in all variations, from simple village baths to stunning complexes surrounded by nature.

... Sushi, sashimi and more.

In the morning, as the smell of freshly brewed coffee fills our nostrils, we are glad that the motorhome has a small kitchen. Otherwise, we can't escape the local culinary delights. We often come across excellent restaurants in small villages. Especially on the coasts, where pubs serve freshly caught fish made into sushi and sashimi

… Japanese friendliness

At a highway rest stop I ask a cashier where the toilets are. She smiles, closes the cash register, and lets the other customers wait. She tells me to follow her, and while I fully expect to be getting bad looks from the other customers, as it turns out, they are smiling at me too. With exceptional patience, the cashier leads me to the other end of the rest area and shows me the door to the toilets. Scenes like this are a part of our trip – the friendliness of the Japanese is simply world-class. Thank you very much – dōmo arigatō!

... and the best tea

Whatever the Japanese do, they do it to perfection. In the Horaido Tea Shop in Kyoto's Teramachi Market, we meet a master of his field: Yasuhiro Yasumori. His kingdom is a small shop, filled to overflowing with teapots, cups, other utensils, and countless teas. If you want to buy tea from him, you can sit back and take your time. In a mutual conversation, it is determined for what occasion and at what time the tea is needed and what your personal preferences are. The game of questions and answers continues until the tea master knows exactly which tea is right for you.

And they bloom after all!

On the above-mentioned fourth day, while our bodies are simmering in the steaming hot water of the Takaragawa Onsen north of Tokyo, we hear that the cherry blossoms have begun in Kyoto. We set off in no time. The scene we find before us in Kyoto is almost kitschy. The cherry trees are blooming everywhere and the entire city seems to be on its feet, in the parks and under the tree-lined avenues. You sense that you’re in the middle of an exceptional event. But then the inevitable arrives – we encounter it in the person of Mr. Fuwa. He takes back the keys of the camper and an incredible road trip comes to an end. But it’s sakura. And that means: When something ends, a new adventure begins.