A city of contrasts: Defining the soul of Seoul

Originally from South Korea, fashion designer Nina Yuun now calls Switzerland her home. Through Nina’s story we explore the places to be, the meaning of travelling, and most importantly, the soul of Seoul – rooted in the city’s duality.

Coming from South Korea, Nina moved to Switzerland almost eight years ago after falling in love with her Swiss now-husband. As a little family of three, she now lives in an idyllic city near Berne, where she also founded her own fashion brand "Nina Yuun".

Fashion, for Nina, has always been more than just clothing. It's a language, a bridge connecting her Korean heritage with her Swiss present. Her mother and grandmother, both fashion designers, instilled in her a love for textiles and form. Now, in her atelier in Burgdorf, inspiration for her collections come from Switzerland and Korea alike. It is her Swiss family and friends, as well as the practicality of the Swiss, along with the warm colours and architectural shapes of traditional Korean buildings that are reflected in her handcrafted fashion pieces.

Seoul’s beauty, too, lies in its duality. With its "ppalli ppalli" or "fast, fast" culture, stepping off the plane in Seoul feels a little bit like entering a world on fast-forward. "You have to work fast, eat fast, then sleep a little bit – and start everything all over again", she jokingly summarizes life in Seoul. This fastness stands in stark contrast to the measured pace of Switzerland, which Nina has already gotten accustomed to. Yet, she finds a peculiar beauty in this frenetic energy: the passion it ignites. For her, it is a reminder to push herself creatively, and to constantly innovate and refine her brand.

While this restlessness can be felt especially in the Gangnam area – with its towering skyscrapers, lined-up BBQ restaurants and fancy clubs, the Gangbuk area – literally translated as the "north of the river" – offers a serene escape from the speedy life. Here, charming neighbourhoods are filled with small, cozy cafes and unique flagship stores. Nestled among these modern touches are little pockets of history, where traditional Korean "Hanok" houses are now home to shops and restaurants and where you can experience past centuries strolling through the old palaces. This constant contrast of tradition and modernity, as well as serenity and chaos – defines the soul of Seoul.

"This constant contrast of tradition and modernity, as well as serenity and chaos – defines the soul of Seoul."

Nina Yuun
Fashion designer and founder of "Nina Yuun"

One of Nina’s most appreciated aspects of South Korea is undoubtedly the food culture – she would even go as far as to say that the attitude towards food is the biggest difference between Switzerland and South Korea. "What is so great about Seoul is that you can find food 24/7", she says – and she’s not exaggerating. Just how passionate Koreans are about food can be observed at every corner: from the bustling streets with blinking neon-lights to hidden alleyway gems – wherever you go, and whenever you find yourself on the streets of Seoul, you will always find something to eat.

A visit to the Gwangjang Market in the Dongdaemun area gives us just one example of how South Korea’s food culture lies not only in its delicious offerings, but also in the experience itself. It is not just about the endless selection of Korean street food dishes – but about the ambience and the warm and welcoming shop owners taking care of their customers like family, and about how food is a way to connect and build community.

Throughout our exploration of Seoul, it becomes clear that embracing the "in-between" of South Korea and Switzerland has made Nina appreciate the strengths of each culture and let her glean the best from both worlds – the Swiss focus on quality and efficiency, balanced with the Korean passion and drive. Being in Seoul only a few days at a time, Nina also carries a renewed perspective on travelling. Travelling, she realized, is not just about ticking destinations off a list. But about living a small chapter in life’s story, a reminder to savour the present, and prioritize what truly matters.

Nina's personal travel guide

"When in Seoul …

… discover the city’s culinary diversity”

Dive into the authentic (and, by the way, vegan) temple cuisine at Sanchon, a hidden gem in one of the small side streets in Insadong. If you are feeling a bit more adventurous, hit Gwangjang Market, Seoul's oldest and biggest traditional market, and eat yourself through the large variety of street food. And if you are craving a fancy night out, then Mood Seoul on the Han River will offer you stunning city views, fresh seafood, and innovative Italian-Korean fusion cuisine.

 

… go for a "second round" in one of Seoul's best bars”

End your day with a cozy atmosphere and unique drinks and cocktails at Smalls in Itaewon, try the carefully prepared cocktails and whisky selection at Brown Study in Seongsu-dong, or check out one of Seoul's queer friendly bars with Social Haven, found in the heart of Haebang Chon.

 

… explore South Korea’s booming coffee & dessert culture”

With many locations throughout Seoul, including one right next to Gyeongbokgung Palace, Baekmidang offers a wide variety of ice cream and ice cream drinks. Be sure to try one of the signature drinks with green tea or Korean tangerine. Also located near the palace is Onion Anguk, a beautiful, quiet cafe in traditional architecture. For vegan options, try Veganique, a vegan dessert cafe near Ewha Women's University. This area is also worth a visit for its many accessories, bag, and shoe stores.

 

… visit my favourite tourist spots”

Take in the stunning views of Seoul from Namsan Tower. You can easily get there by cable car or take a leisurely walk up the hill. In addition to the amazing views, Namsan Tower also offers a variety of shopping and dining options. Bukchon is another must-visit spot – and if you are there, strolling through the traditional Hanok houses, make sure to stop by my favourite souvenir shop "Seoul Seoul Seoul". 

 

… go shopping and experience Seoul's unique flagship stores”

Get inspired by the trendy styles of the Korean fashion brand Musinsa, or visit one of the unique flagship stores that Seoul is so well-known for. Just two examples would be Andersson Bell, a Seoul-based brand where Korean street style meets scandivanian minimalistic elements, or ADERERROR – a six-floor combination of a coffee shop, an art exhibition and a rooftop area. Their retro-futuristic showrooms will take your shopping experience to a whole new level.

Text: Jenny Messikommer

Film & images: Oliver Lips, Jenny Messikommer

Production: McQueen Films

Published: 8 April 2024