"A city of extremes –
super-hot in summer, incredibly cold in winter. And Toronto is also much wilder than other cities. Although it's a big city, it has its little nooks and crannies where you can come to chill out and find inspiration." That’s how Dom describes Toronto. And as in Switzerland, you can quickly get out to the countryside and nature, where many residents have their holiday homes for the classic North American "city escape". For Dom, as a Swiss who loves spectacular nature, this is of course a big plus.
Talking about locals – or "Torontonians", as they are called: the city is home to around 3 million people from 160 nations, who between them speak almost 200 languages. This makes Toronto a cultural melting pot, and it is said that the city is inconceivable, not viable and not worth visiting without its immigrants.
According to Dom, the inhabitants cannot be described as "typical" because they are just as diverse as the city itself is. They are at least as busy as New Yorkers, if not more so, but also have that certain friendliness and calmness that is common to all Canadians.
So how did Dom get from Switzerland to Toronto? After qualifying as a graphic designer, Dom couldn't wait to pack her backpack and explore South America. Her path took her from Costa Rica to Colombia, and from there to Vancouver, where she actually only planned to go snowboarding. But she fell in love there, and so made the decision to stay. Vancouver was followed by Toronto, where she experienced all the seasons before the longing for her family and friends in Switzerland became too strong and she returned. However, Canada will always hold a very special place in Dom’s heart. Something else has also remained from her time in Canada: Dom lives out her passion for nature on long hikes, such as on the Pacific Crest Trail, an almost 4300 km long-distance hiking trail in the western USA. To date, the Arctic Circle Trail in Greenland (160km), Via Alpina through Switzerland (390 km), Kungsleden in Sweden (470km) and the Te Araroa in New Zealand (3000 km) have also been added to her hiking profile.
It’s not necessarily the well-known sights …
… that need to be seen. You can experience the real Toronto by simply strolling from neighbourhood to neighbourhood on foot, because every culture has its own specific quarter: Little Italy, Chinatown, Greektown, Little India, Little Poland … "Even though Toronto is a big city, it’s very easy to explore everything on foot", says Dom. What you notice on a city walk: the different districts "don’t all simply flow together"; you just cross the road, and you've already gone from the business district with its high-rise buildings to Chinatown with its colourful restaurants. It’s hard to think of another city where you can experience such rich contrasts.
"Toronto is much wilder than other cities. Although it's a big city, it has its little nooks and crannies where you can come to chill out."
Creative Director
Dom loves the Kensington district with its small hip and individual shops and cafés most of all. If you're looking for something commercial off the peg, you've come to the wrong place – that’s how unique the shops, shopkeepers and residents are; simply the whole experience. Especially when strolling among the colourful wooden houses you’ll actually feel as if you belong here. At this point, vintage fashion lovers in particular should feel we are talking to them, because Kensington is well known all over the country for its carefully curated and maintained second-hand shops. Many will relate to Dom’s statement that it’s like being on a treasure hunt – you never know just what you're going to find. It’s always things "that no one else has and so create a memory that no one else has, either".
And talking of memories: The tattoo in the film is of …
… Dom’s grandfather, who crossed the whole of Scandinavia on his motorbike – and who has clearly passed his passion for adventure and travel on to his granddaughter. Which is why she now wears a photo of him, which could also be a movie poster, on her arm. It is the work of Alex, a friend Dom initially met in Toronto and with whom she is still in touch. Incidentally, Dom never has her tattoos done in Switzerland, but only ever when she is abroad so she can also take the memory of these place with her forever.
"Of course, it was the chocolate …
… that I missed the most – after my family and friends, of course – while I was in Canada. Which Swiss person doesn’t?" she asks, with a laugh. But the bread and cheese also fall short of their Swiss counterparts. Dom tells us, with a twinkle, that her Canadian colleagues at the time invited her to a fondue during her first week there. However, this is not exactly her favourite memory – some traditions really are best left where they belong.
So what should you most definitely not miss if you want to experience the original Torontonian feeling? Here are Dom’s best insider tips for the Toronto she knows and loves, and that are not to be found in any guidebook.
Dom's personal travel tips
Royal Ontario Museum
Stand under a Tyrannosaurus Rex? You can in Toronto. At the Royal Ontario Museum, in fact, also known as the ROM, which has set itself the goal of becoming one of the world's leading cultural institutions of the 21st century. If you visit this museum, which will already leave you almost speechless when you see the outside due to its spectacular architecture, you’ll be convinced that they are most definitely heading in the right direction.
Art Gallery of Ontario
With a collection of more than 90,000 works of art on 45,000 square metres of exhibition space, the Art Gallery of Ontario, known as the “AGO” for short, is one of the most important museums in North America. The venerable building was extended in 2008 by the world-famous Canadian architect Frank Gehry, who added a steel-blue extension and a spiral staircase. For Gehry, who has lived in California for a long time, it is the first project in his hometown of Toronto. The New York Times also confirms that he has set himself a monumental legacy here: “A textbook example of how architecture can be respectful of the past without bowing to it.”
“Exile” – second-hand shopping at its best
The thrift shop, which is already eye-catching on the outside, has been in family hands since 1975, and is still one of the largest in all Toronto on an estimated 1500 square metres. The range does not specialise in any particular theme or era, but – and you've guessed it – in the 1940s, 1960s, 2000s ... in just about every age! Neatly and thematically arranged, each item is carefully washed, ironed, and – if necessary – repaired. It also recycles on a large scale, especially old fabrics and materials, so that they can be worn for as long as possible. The dresses are also curated exclusively for Exile; nothing ends up here by chance. Mother and son, who now run the business, source them from all over North America, for instance from estate sales, film sets and stylists. The latter not only sell their props to Exile, but also obtain any unusual items from here. It’s no wonder that others in the entertainment industry also find what they are looking for here – including names like Beyoncé, Lenny Kravitz and Rod Stewart, to name but a few. www.exilevintage.ca
Rotate This – an institution of the vinyl boom
The demand for vinyl records is now so great again that a while ago, there was even a jam in the pressing works. This is confirmed by Rotate This, one of Toronto's leading and best-known independent record stores, whose motto is “Music Makes Us Happy”. In addition to new releases by independent bands and artists from all over the world, it also offers a large stock of older vinyls. That's why it serves almost every genre: the hip, the hop, the punk, the jazz, the hardcore, the reggae, the electronic, the indie, the un-indie ... in short, a paradise for music-lovers!
Fika Coffee – a break with cinnamon buns
If you need a break from shopping in the heart of Kensington, this is the place for you. And even more so if you have a sweet tooth. Keyword: homemade cinnamon buns! What may make your mouth water may also sound atypical for Toronto, but in fact they couldn’t be a better fit. In over 10 years, founder Yadi Arifin has perfected this speciality to such an extent that you could be forgiven for thinking cinnamon buns were actually invented here. Coffee lovers can also look forward to regularly changing coffee specialities, all from Canadian roasters, of course. www.fika.ca
Mother Bar – Cheers to fermentation
An odd name for a bar? Not a bit of it! The multiple World Class participant and bar owner Massi has created a small oasis for lovers of particular taste in his Mother Bar. Elevating the Canadian cocktail scene, it currently ranks as number 37 on the "Best 50 Bars in North America" and 7th best Canadian bar. The principle: the recipes are based on fermentation. And the name “Mother” came about because the “mother dough” is the basis of his products. In addition to homemade and regularly changing kombucha varieties, it also serves sophisticated cocktails and the finest bar snacks, which can also be enjoyed as a complete evening meal. A must for aperitifs, digestifs, or if you just happen to be thirsty or have an appetite.
Prime Seafood Palace – a feast for the eyes
The name may sound a little pretentious at first, but as soon as you enter the restaurant, you’ll find yourself in a palace of maple wood, light and salmon-coloured seating niches. Chef Matty Matheson only serves produce “that has been grown, caught and raised by people we care about”. The carefully curated menu offers a balance between fantastic seafood, grilled meats, and refined vegetable dishes. For a special evening when you have something to celebrate – even if it’s just a visit to Toronto. www.primeseafoodpalace.ca
Hanmoto Restaurant – a must for foodies
Somewhat unassuming on the outside, step through the door and you’ll instantly feel you've been transported into an Asian gangster movie. In the smallest of spaces, you’ll find one of the best examples of Toronto's thriving food culture, even if the Japanese-American-inspired dishes are actually too delicious and inventive to be called snacks. They are also presented as if in a fine dining restaurant, so your hand will be itching to pull out your mobile. Some describe the vibe as “Izakaya-meets-backyard-speakeasy with a Wu-Tang Clan soundtrack”. Any questions? It’s best to head over there, experience it, and see for yourself. www.instagram.com/hanm0t0
Bevvy’s – trendsetter in the sober drinking culture
A trend that has long since reached the big cities has now also settled in Kensington: non-alcoholic alternatives to spirits, wine and beer. Bevvy's, the first independent store for non-alcoholic beverages of all kinds, opened at the end of 2023. With plenty of flavour but no alcohol, and in some cases also no sugar. Owner Cristian Villamarin came up with the idea when he was looking for various non-alcoholic beverages in a supermarket. Frustrated by the small selection, and in view of the now unbelievable and increasing brand variety of high-quality non-alcoholic products, he decided to provide a platform for them away from the online stores. And so Bevvy’s was born.
Graination – the one-stop photo lab
If you are looking for ways to bring analogue memories to life, you’ll find it’s becoming increasingly difficult. Graination, Toronto's leading photo lab, is therefore something of a dream come true for fans of analogue photography. While you enjoy the hand-brewed coffee specialities and check up on the latest photography tips in the Graination blog, your photos are being developed just a few steps away in the laboratory. This is also the only laboratory in the entire state of Ontario that develops all kinds of film, from expert photo reproductions to precise image printing.
Text: Jeannine Kanwischer
Film & Images: Oliver Lips, Jeannine Kanwischer, Tim Holder, Mother Bar, Bevvy’s
Production: McQueen Films
Published: 18 April 2024
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