Singapore: great, green, gracious

Necessity is the mother of invention - nowhere is this better seen than in Singapore, where space has been found for almost everything in the smallest of spaces. 

Architecturally impressive large buildings stand between elegant buildings from the colonial era and historic shophouses. Jungle-like green spaces grow next to man-made water reservoirs and wide expressways. Expensive shopping malls and gourmet restaurants complement the bustling markets and food courts.

Add to that the unique ethnic and cultural diversity: you can walk from Little India to Arab Street and Chinatown. Somewhere in between is the Central Business District, which looks like an ultra-modern western metropolis with its glass towers. If you want to experience Asia with a pinch of Europe: this is it. Perfectly spiced and very exciting.

 

Facts & Figures about Singapore

  • According to a Credit Suisse study, around 1,000 Singaporeans are “crazy rich” - people with assets of over USD 50 million were counted. In addition, there are over 200,000 “normal” millionaires.
  • Even founding Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew wanted a garden city and had countless trees planted during his 31 years in office. Today, around two million trees are said to green the city.
  • More than 90 percent of Singaporeans live in their own homes - a world record. This is due to the government's “public housing” programme: the government provides affordable housing through public housing construction.
  • Opened in 2012, the man-made and beautiful urban jungle Gardens by the Bay attracted over ten million visitors last year.
  • The state of Singapore consists of 63 islands. So there are 62 more floating around the main island, some of them deserted. Not deserted but very popular are Pulau Ubin, Pulau Hantu, Sisters' Island and Sentosa.
  • In half a century of independence, the former British Crown Colony has tripled its population and increased its territory by over 20 percent. By 2030, this figure is expected to rise by 30 per cent.

 

Travel tips

 

Delicious food

Sungei Road Laksa

Modest cookshop with round Formica tables and pink plastic chairs. But the queue reveals that there is something special here: Laksa, a creamy coconut soup flavoured with fish sauce, coriander and laksa leaves, in which mini mussels, soy sprouts and rice noodles float. Sungei Road Laksa, 27 Jalan Berseh.

Two plates filled with Laksa and yello spoons.
Laksa originated in Malaysia, it tastes best in traditional cookshops.

 

Burnt Ends

Roasted, baked, smoked or grilled - Australian David Pynt raises the BBQ principle to star level. In a former Chinese shophouse, he serves smoked eggs with caviar, the finest Wagyu steaks and the best brioche burgers in town. Reservations are recommended, and it's best to sit at the counter with a view of the flames.

burntends.com.sg

Toasted brad with melted cheese, gravy and pickles.
Toasted bread with smoked beef cooked like a ragout, eggplant miso puree and pickled cucumbers.

 

Coconut Club

The best nasi lemak - rice cooked in coconut milk with pandan leaf topped with fried chicken, fried egg, peanuts, cucumber, sambal (spice paste), and dried mini fish - is at this casual, very popular Beach Road eatery. You sit at communal tables, look into the partially open kitchen, and order a delicate coconut jelly for dessert..

thecoconutclub.sg

Waitress serves three plates of nasi lemak.
Enough for two: at the Coconut Club, Nasi Lemak is served in lavish portions.

 

Sin Huat Eating House

Neon-lit fish joint without a menu but with Bib Gourmand from the Guide Michelin . Owner and chef Danny Lee prepares his own soy sauce, keeps a different chilli paste for each dish and flies in his king crabs fresh from Sri Lanka every day. Beware: the whole thing is not as cheap as it looks! Sin Huat Eating House, 659/661 Lorong 35 Gelang, Tel. +65 6744 9755.

Sea mussels on a pink plate.
The plates are plastic, the sea snails with homemade soy sauce a delicacy.

 

Trendy bars and coffee shops

Ya Kun

Traditional coffee house serving a local breakfast speciality: Kaya, a thick cream made of coconut milk, eggs, palm sugar and pandan leaves, slathered with lots of butter on freshly toasted slices of bread. The insider orders kopi (coffee) and a gooey egg seasoned with soy sauce and pepper.

yakun.com

Green plate with different dishes e.g. toasted bread, egg with soy sauce.
Semi-raw fried eggs, Kaya toast and Kopi - the classic Singaporean breakfast.

 

Le Bon Funk

Stylish wine bar in a historic shophouse. The focus is on natural wines from all over the world, many of which are served by the glass. As a solid basis for the stomach, there are olives, cheese or toast with cedar jelly and foie gras, and the friendly sommelière knows which wine goes with it.

lebonfunk.com

Wine and water glass on a bar counter.
Iced rosé and French olives at Le Bon Funk.

 

Native

Small bar on the first floor of an old Chinatown house. They work with local products including gins produced in Singapore and house-flavoured distillates. If you're brave enough, try the Peranakan cocktail with jackfruit rum, laksa leaves, goat's milk and candlenut, or if you want to be on the safe side, order a fruity yuzu sake.

tribenative.com

A bartender is pouring a drink into a glass.
Most cocktails served at Native are the bartenders' own creations.

 

Fascinating Culture

STPI

Creative workshop and gallery for contemporary art. The non-profit organisation supports artistic experiments and young artists who are provided with work and exhibition opportunities in the 400 square metres of a former warehouse. The abstract paintings of Genevieve Chua have also been shown.

stpi.com.sg

Look inside a gallery with paintings at the wall.
STPI is considered Singapore's best destination for young contemporary art.

 

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

Those who know what is proper bring offerings and take off their shoes in front of the red-painted portals. The imposing temple was opened in 2007, and under the pagoda roofs are, among other things, a Buddhist culture museum, a cosy tea house and the mysterious tooth relic covered by a stupa made of 234 kilos of gold.

btrts.org.sg

The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple is surrounded by high buildings.
The temple's name comes from a relic Buddhists believe is the left canine tooth of Buddha, which can be seen here.

 

Good Shopping

Onlewo

The cheerful patterns with stylised and/or newly interpreted Singaporean motifs pick up on architecture, cooking utensils, flowers or symbols. The unique range of designers Mike Tay and Eugene Yip includes upholstery fabrics, cushion covers, handbags, dresses, bags - they are very special and beautiful souvenirs in any case!

onlewo.com

Cushion covers, handbags, dresses, bags are displayed in a shop.
Onlewo's designers transform ancient motifs into very modern patterns.

 

Kinokunya

The city's best bookshop is also one of the largest in Southeast Asia and attracts over 200,000 visitors a month. Among the approximately 400,000 titles are books on medicine, finance and physics, cookery and design books, novels and a gigantic selection of international comics and magazines. Plus: beautiful stationery from Japan.

kinokuniya.com.sg

View into a book shop.
You wish you had a bookstore like Kinokunya in Zurich, London or Paris.

 

Supermama

The pretty, minimalist showroom in Kampong Glam belongs to designer couple Edwin Low and Mei Ling. They search for, collect and sell selected handicrafts and unusual design products from all over Asia, such as enchanting porcelain, fine glassware or colourfully patterned adhesive tape ("washi tapes").

supermom.sg

Enchanting porcelain plates in blue color displayed in a shop.
Each plate is hand-painted and unique.

 

Comfi sleeping

The Capitol Kempinski

The elegant 55-room and suite hotel resides in a prime city location in two historic city palaces - one built in Victorian style, the other in the most beautiful Art Deco. Shimmering woods, light sandstone, warm natural colours and lots of art characterise the interior, plus there is a pool and a restaurant run by star chef Alvin Leung.

kempinski.com

Hotel suite with dark furniture and large windows.
Spacious suite with shimmering wooden floors and elegant furnishings - The Capitol Kempinski is one of Singapore's top hotels.

 

The Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore

Futuristic steel-and-glass building standing on stilts in the shore waters of Marina Bay. The view is spectacular everywhere: from the insanely high marble lobby, from the balconies of the 100 spacious and glamorously styled rooms and suites, from the spacious roof terrace with pool and bar. Another plus point: the exceptionally good breakfast.

fullertonhotels.com

Room of the Fullerton hotel with a view to the marina bay and the Marina Bay Sands Hotel.
Room with a view: At the Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore, you can look directly onto Marina Bay from your bed.

Text: Patricia Engelhorn

 

Photos: Marvin Zilm

 

Published on: 17.03.2023