Les Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen is considered the oldest and largest flea market in the world. It originated in 1870, when the Parisian ragpickers - people who collected old materials for recycling - were banned from the capital for hygienic reasons and settled on the outskirts of the then emerging village of Saint-Ouen. Legend has it that the term "flea market" also originated in Paris, because along with the used and probably mostly unwashed textiles, the odd flea ("puce") also changed hands.

Tempi passati. After the flea market was in a deep crisis at the beginning of the millennium, struggling with empty stalls and a bad reputation, it is now more fashionable than ever. This may be due to a new generation of traders who approach their customers in an open and friendly manner. Or the refreshed sales offer, which scores with great vintage fashion, noble midcentury furniture, art, silverware, antique jewellery or perfectly functioning old cameras.

"We've set up a reception centre, made sure taxis are available for visitors and even found professional shopping guides who can be booked for a tour" explains Stéphanie Duplaix, manager of the Marché Paul Bert-Serpette, the most glamorous of Saint-Ouen's twelve markets.

Little by little, many of the well over a thousand stands on the seven-hectare market site have been renovated - while many used to be empty, the waiting list for a stand is getting longer and longer.

The stalls, bars, cafés and bistros attract a lot of visitors. Some have been around for decades, others are new, still others shine in a cool industrial look. Parisian BoBos, tourists, local traders as well as collectors and Instagrammers from all over the world sit here tableside - if they are lucky enough to find one. Because with around five million visitors a year and up to 150,000 people on some weekends, the Saint-Ouen flea market is considered one of the most visited sights in France.

 

Shopping

Voyages

Elisio Das-Neves has a collection of antique Louis Vuitton travel chests, Goyard travel bags, American wardrobe cases and other things that make the collector's heart beat faster. Old watches, costume jewellery and silk scarves from Hermès fit into the hand luggage. Marché Serpette, Allée 3, 110 Rue des Rosiers, tel. +33 6 07 49 68 10, des-voyages.fr

 

Chez Sarah

It would take days to browse the range of shoes, hats, bags and textiles that lie and hang in this 70-metre-long sales hose. Sarah Rozenbaum is the third generation to run the shop, which specialises in 19th- and 20th-century fashion, and the fourth is already waiting in the wings. Le Passage, 18 Rue Jules Vallés, tel. +33 6 08 01 80 89, chezsarah.net

 

Maison Jeaune

In their enchanting three-storey shop, Elodie and Julien Regniers sell a bold mix of lamps from the 1960s, cool furniture from Denmark and their own creations. Marché Paul Bert, Allée 3, 96 Rue des Rosiers, tel. +33 6 07 09 71 42, maisonjaunedesign.com

 

Art de la Table

Jérôme Chedmail worked for a large silverware dealer before setting up his own stall at the flea market in 2001. In his showcases, you'll find 19th and 20th century silverware in Empire, Napoleon III and Art Deco styles, including many pieces by Christofle. Marché Serpette, Allée 3, 110 Rue des Rosiers, tel. +33 6 63 74 83 30

 

Sylvie Corbellin

This jewellery designer is an exception among the puciers, as she sells jewels she has designed herself. Her poetic, baroque and always somewhat mysterious pieces are made of irregular gemstones that come from old mines and look like they did in Baudelaire's time. Marché Paul Bert, Allée 7, entrance area, 110 Rue des Rosiers, tel. +33 1 40 12 87 40, sylvie-corbelin.com

 

Sounds Good

Owner Hugues Cornière was a collector before he became a dealer. For decades he searched for and bought old hi-fi equipment, his garage was overflowing, his wife annoyed. In 2006, he moved into a stall at the Marché Dauphine and was the first to trade in old hi-fi equipment there. Marché Dauphine, Stand 28, 140 Rue des Rosiers, Tel. +33 6 80 10 82 81

 

Food & Drink

HaSalon

The French version of Eyal Shani's flagship restaurant in Tel Aviv opened in January 2023 in the Saint-Ouen flea market, bringing contemporary Israeli cuisine and cheerful atmosphere among the stalls. The open show kitchen puts on a vibrant show, and the menu features delicious classics of Levantine cuisine. 106 Rue des Rosiers, tel. +33 1 84 21 04 30, hasalonparis.com.

 

La Chope des Puces

When the band plays in the afternoon, it gets crowded in this cult café. Django Reinhard is said to have played here, and the jazz tradition is still alive today. Many locals and Parisians sit among the tourists, and the owner has opened a music school on the first floor. 122 Rue des Rosiers, tel. +33 40 11 28 80, lachopedespuces.fr

 

Café Le Paul Bert

Wooden panelling and old posters characterise the entrance area of the bistro with large terrace, which opened in 1985. Regulars are greeted by the patron with a handshake, and culinary highlights include oeufs mayonnaise, tartare de boeuf and homemade frites. 20 Rue Paul Bert, tel. +33 1 40 11 90 28, lepaulbert.fr

 

Le Comptoir des Puces

Intimate, well-hidden eatery in the middle of the Serpette market hall between aisles 2 and 3. Many stallholders spend their lunch break here, as the menu is varied and offers seasonal French classics, including some vegetarian dishes. You can also have breakfast or just a coffee here. 110 rue des Rosiers, tel. +33 1 40 12 81 10, @lecomptoirdespuces

 

Kanope

An organic pizzeria with French-inspired pizzas, such as perrette with various French cheeses or paulette with porcini cream. There's also pasta, salads, delicious starters as well as a terrific wine selection and a sunny terrace. 39 Rue Paul Bert, tel. +33 7 45 55 16 13, leblogdekanope.fr

 

Sleep

MOB House
The new 100-room hotel, opened right next to the Paul Bert market, was designed by Philippe Starck with lots of concrete, marble and beautiful parquet flooring. Many rooms offer bay windows and work areas, some also private terraces. Plus: great brasserie, extensive garden with heated pool, cool bar and well-equipped gym. 70 Rue des Rosiers, tel. +33 1 55 28 80 80, mobhouse.com, double room from 149 euros.